April 2008 - Posts

Four friends in Marbella

We´ve been thoroughly enjoying having our friends Pat and Sue over to stay. They really are the perfect guests, not only providing excellent entertainment but at the same time cooking for us and also helping with general jobs around the house.  Sue did all of Ian´s ironing (something I have actually never done) and Pat has helped Ian build a fence to create a secure outdoor area for the cats.  (Poor little Grace was recently chased by Chica, the cheeky Spaniel – who seems to have adopted us as surrogate parents, spending all day over here and only returning home to eat and sleep – which caused her some considerable distress.  Unfortunately, she found herself on the wrong side of the fence at the time which instead of protecting her, prevented her from returning to the safety of the house.  She did cause a bit of damage to the netting, running into it at 80 miles an hour and eventually getting stuck in it, but this has since been fixed.)  Together the ´boys´ have tidied tools, built steps down into the olive/almond grove and I believe today´s plan is to put up curtain poles and curtains in the upstairs lounge.  The weather has been fantastic since their arrival last Sunday so we´ve been relaxing on the sunloungers in between chores. 

 

Apart from the occasional outing into the village to go to the supermarket, fishmonger´s, butcher´s shop and stroll around the market, we´ve not been out very much, so on Saturday we took a trip down to the coast and visited the grand city of Marbella.  None of us, apart from Ian – albeit many moons ago – had been to the resort, so we didn´t quite know what to expect but, to our delight, what we found was very pleasing indeed.  The old town was lovely, dotted with squares full of orange trees and colourful flowers which provided a striking contrast to the white-washed walls.  Yes, there were some sights to be seen, i.e. skinny posh ´babes´, clad in designer gear, sipping a glass of champagne whilst wondering which shop to frequent next but generally, the place had a lovely relaxed feel to it and definitely merits a return visit.

 

After a mooch along the seafront, we found our way back into the old town where we had the most delicious lunch in the shady back patio of a traditional Andalucían restaurant.  I started off with homemade gazpacho with all the trimmings, a mixed salad and fresh breadrolls, followed by hake cheeks in a pil pil sauce (olive oil, garlic and chilli peppers), washed down with a cool, crisp white wine.  It was one of the best meals I have ever eaten – I´m in heaven just thinking about it.  After coffee and ice cream in a street café, we returned home. 

 

The perfect day and the icing on the cake:  the Canaries winning 3 - 0 at home to QPR. 

 

Can life get any better?

 

xxx

Old town in Marbella

The sea at Marbella

Running on empty

Yup, we´ve had it.  We have just more or less completed operation blitz clean (after only 8 days of solid scrubbing) and we are absolutely pooped.  The last time I felt so worn out was when we moved out of the Old Ship seven months ago.  I still haven´t managed to unpack my clothes yet but that´s this morning´s little job and then … we can finally start living again.  To tell you what we have done in and around this house would make this blog entry endless, so I´ll simply let you know what we haven´t accomplished so far and that´s to sit down and relax.

 

If you were expecting a detailed description of the area and accounts of walks or visits to villages and towns, I´m afraid I have to disappoint you.  For the past week we have been working around the clock to get the house ship shape, often skipping lunch and not having our dinner until 11 o´clock at night, each balancing a tray on our lap whilst watching the BBC News at Ten.  Our only respite from our chores was a trip out to a nearby IKEA store (to purchase a double bed, so that tall visitors will be able to get a good night´s kip), a visit to the bank to pick up our new cash cards and a couple of supermarket shops.  Exciting stuff, huh?  The cats have been most helpful in their own little way by giving us dirty looks whenever we moved a piece of furniture on which they happened to be snoozing at the time and also by honking up furballs just as we had taken off the Marigolds and put away various other cleaning utensils.  Cheers girls.

 

We have not met our neighbours yet who must think we are unsociable misery-guts.  We have, however, become acquainted with their dogs: a gorgeous black Spaniel called Chica, a fluffy Bobtail type dog whom we have named Dulux (well, I have but Ian calls him/her? – not sure, there´s too much fur to see any clear evidence as to its gender - Boris as he/she? reminds him of Boris Johnson) and a big ginger dog with pointy ears whom I call Wolfdog whereas, yet again, Ian has his own nickname for him, refering to the four-legged creature as Nicholas (as he reminds him of Nicholas Witchell, a BBC News correspondent).  They really are delightful animals and luckily don´t seem to take the least bit of notice of our cats, something which had me slightly worried at first.  Much to my delight, they are far more interested in cuddles and titbits than in wanting to chase after two cats which hardly move anyway – understandable really.

 

The one thing that has made being cooped up inside the house slightly more bearable was the awful weather we´ve been having of late.  ´En abril aguas mil.` as they say here in Spain which basically means that it tends to rain a lot in April.  Now that we´ve cleaned the house from top to bum, I´d like the weather to pick up though.  I´m dying to try out the tempting-looking sunloungers, I want to gather almonds and herbs, enjoy BBQs and al fresco dining, explore the area with our friends Pat and Sue who are coming out this afternoon to visit us for ten days and, of course, play with our new friends – the dogs.  Besides, the house is far too clean now to get it all dirty again, so could someone switch on the rays please?

 

Hasta pronto.

Welcome to the Sierra de las Nieves

Well, we´ve made it and here we are now in the Sierra de las Nieves in the Málaga province.  Last Friday´s trip over took us about four hours and wasn´t too bad at all.  The car was stuffed to the roof and I ended up balancing various items like cat basket (without cats in it though), a bag of cat food and a rucksack on my knees as, yet again, we´d run out of space.  The cats were more or less ok throughout the journey although Grace got increasingly fed up and tried to head-butt her way out of the cat carrier.  I had given them some - allegedly - calming Bach remedy drops which are purely herbal and nothing dodgy, I´ll have you know.  The cats got one drop each whilst I administered myself four.  Not convinced that they worked on Grace (nor me) but Jasmine seemed to be benefitting from the ´drug` and was relaxed throughout the trip, snoozing happily most of the way. 

 

The new house really is great but it was (and in parts still is) absolutely filthy, so consequently Ian and I have turned into Mr and Mrs Mop over the past four days which we have spent cleaning, scrubbing, polishing, scouring, sweeping, vacuuming, dusting, wiping, buffing … (I think you get the picture).  To give you an idea of just how bad it was: before we could wash various kitchen items like crockery and cutlery, we firstly had to give the sink a good clean and prior to mopping the floors, we had to rinse out the bucket as it was covered in a thick layer of dust and dirt.  What a nightmare.  Whenever we have moved out of a place, we have made sure to leave it spotless, so the next occupants could simply move in their gear.  Disappointingly, not everybody seems to work to the same standards of cleanliness.  Ian has also spent a fair while rectifying various unsuccessful DIY attempts by the owner (like putting up a shower screen - which didn´t open - at the wrong end of the bath or erecting a gazebo on top of a hill behind the house which had obviously had a battle with the wind and - as it appears - the wind won.)  So, yet again, not the best start to our new life but despite a fairly exhausting and frustrating debut, we do already feel at home here and haven´t really had time to miss the Alpujarras as yet. 

 

After having lived in a fairly small flat where the lounge, dining room and kitchen were all in one, we are now almost rattling around this massive house but the sensation of space inside and out is very liberating.  The location of the villa affords us the most amazing views.  From the top lounge, to the southeast we can see the city of Málaga with the Mediterranean beyond and to the east we can even catch a glimpse of the snow-covered mountains of the Sierra Nevada. The huge `garden´ has lots of almond and olive trees and there is a lemon tree and a massive fig tree in front of the house.  I have also discovered herbs such as thyme, rosemary and fennel and I´m sure there´s lots more ´lurking` out there.

 

The best thing though: it´s sooooooo quiet.  No church clock, no noisy neighbours, no screaming kids, no mopeds …  All you hear is the occasional dog barking and of course bird song.  Lovely.  We can watch English television (even though we might never get round to it, as I think we´ll spend most of our time in the great outdoors) and we´ve got the internet up and running (as you can see), so everything is hunky dory, really.  (Apart from the rooms that still need cleaning, the single beds that are too short for a tall person to sleep in and the umpteen cupboards which are crammed with lamps, glassware, bedding, electric heaters, radios et al.  WHERE ARE WE GOING TO PUT OUR STUFF???)

 

I think we´ll be very happy here - eventually. 

 

Stand by for more adventures.

 

xxx

Sea view

Adios la Alpujarra!

“And now the end is near and so we face …”  having to say hasta luego to the beautiful Alpujarra and the lovely village of Bérchules, our home for the past six months.  Tomorrow we´re off to start the second phase of our new life in Andalucía, this time in the province of Málaga.  The car is more or less packed, (yet again, we´ve over-estimated the loading capacity and ended up leaving our computer desk behind at our landlady´s, so we now have our belongings stored in three different places across Europe).  The flat will get its final clean tomorrow morning.  Various religious artifacts we couldn´t bear looking at on a day-to-day basis have been pulled out from under the beds in the spare bedrooms and put back where we found them.  We´ve bid farewell to most of our neighbours and friends and we had a final drink in the Posada bar last night.  You see, we originally intended  leaving today but the weather has been so atrocious (it´s been raining for the past four days) that we simply couldn´t shift our stuff from flat to car today (a distance of several hundred metres) so we gave in and decided to leave tomorrow instead.  (I think Bérchules is trying to tell us something: “Don´t go!”)

 

The strange thing is that we almost feel  more emotional about leaving this time than we did when we left Norfolk.  Why ?  I have no idea.  We didn´t have the best of starts (as you might have gathered if you´ve read any of the previous blogs) and it has taken us a while to settle in, cope with the thick Alpujarran accent and get to know people.  Having lived in semi-rural Norfolk where we had a detached cottage with a big garden, it´s been quite tricky living in a small flat underneath the noisiest family here in Bérchules.  Their two young kids running around on tiled floors, screaming and crying did wonders for keeping our headaches topped up throughout our stay. 

 

Noise is something Spaniards are very good at.  Rather than talking to one another, they shout (sometimes hanging out of the window whilst the other person is standing in the street or leaning out of a window themselves, often a fair distance away).  In bars and even restaurants, you´ll frequently find the television blaring out and kids´ toys in Spain always make a racket (if not, they´re most definitely broken).  This has all been very alien to us and yet, even though we didn´t particularly like it (and still don´t) - we´ve somehow got used to it.  We´ve never had a cross word with any of our neighbours, adopting very much the Spanish `live and let live´ attitude.  In fact, people here have made us feel very welcome and part of the village.  Our landlady has rung our doorbell many times, bringing us buñuelos, cake, vegetables and even complete lunches.  When we told her we were leaving, she had tears in her eyes and, clutching at her heart, said that she´d miss us as by now she considered us as part of the family which was quite moving.  Spaniards can be very direct and often seem abrupt but they are hospitable, kind, genuine and quite simply fabulous people.  I love living in this laid-back country and I have really enjoyed our time in Bérchules.  When you arrive here, it feels as if you have stepped into the Tardis and travelled back in time.  As David who runs one of the local supermarkets once said:” If you´re in a rush, don´t come to the Alpujarra.”  There is no doubt that this region and particularly the village of Bérchules will always have a special place in our hearts. 

 

I´ll close with some photographs taken over the past months throughout the Alpujarra.  I hope they will whet your appetite for visiting this beautiful and unspoilt part of Spain.

So long.  xxx

The pool at El Cercado

 

See the top village on the right hand side? That´s Bérchules.

 

Bérchules

Typical village house in Bérchules

Typical Alpujarran chimney

Our home

Ploughing the fields as in the olden days outside Bérchules

 

Above Bérchules

 

Walking in the mountains

The Alpujarra in autumn colours

 

Trevélez – the highest populated village in Spain

Almond blossom in the Sierra de la Contraviesa in January

Spring in the Alpujarras

 

View of Alcútar, Narila, Cádiar and the Contraviesa

Ready to go

Forced entry

Our search for the perfect area continued.  In December we explored the Axarquía region north of Málaga which is known for its mild climate and Ian returned there in January (whilst I looked after the cats) when our Xmas and New Year visitors had gone back home.  Even though we wanted it to, the area didn´t do much for us.  We found it far too densely populated and not Spanish enough for our liking.  We were back to square one and gradually started to worry if we would ever find an area where we could contemplate living. 

 

At the end of January we set off on yet another journey; this time travelling further west within the Málaga province, where we checked out the Sierra de las Nieves, located between Málaga and Ronda.  Much to our delight, Ian and I soon discovered that not only did we find the area beautiful but also quickly agreed that we could see ourselves living there - at least temporarily.  Consequently, we arranged to meet up with an estate agent, hoping she would be able to find us a suitable rental property.  We did not really expect to be shown anything straight away, especially as our phone call and subsequent request to see her had been somewhat out of the blue. However, it soon became obvious that the agent was pretty keen to take us to a ´lovely ground floor apartment with shared pool, just on the outskirts of the village affording glorious views over the valley, perfect for you´, as she put it.  We were instructed to follow her by car and had to negotiate a fairly lengthy and pretty bumpy track. 

 

When we eventually arrived at our destination, we were welcomed by Magdalena, a lovely, elderly Spanish lady who was looking after the complex and therefore in charge of keys.  She showed us various first floor apartments and I started to wonder if I had misheard the estate agent´s description of the flat as I had been convinced we were supposed to look at a ground floor apartment.  We were, but there was a little problem in the shape of a key.  Magdalena had a whole bunch of them but the one that opened ´our` apartment, seemed to have gone missing and after some frantic searching she finally revealed why.  Her son had been round earlier that day to change a light bulb in the flat and had obviously gone off with said key.  We tried to be helpful, partly because we felt a bit sorry for the clearly embarrassed lady but also because we quite wanted to see the inside of this allegedly perfect place.  “Does your son have a mobile phone?”, we asked her.  She nodded in response.  “Why don´t you phone him?”, we suggested.  “But I don´t know where he is.”, she retorted (obviously not quite understanding the concept of having a mobile phone – bless.) 

 

After she tried using all keys available (just in case) without any success, an idea occurred to her.  She had remembered that she had left the bathroom window open and the apartment´s bathroom conveniently overlooked a small boiler room to which she had access.  Standing in there a few minutes later gazing through the open bathroom window, the agent and I witnessed Magdalena leaning a ladder against the outside of the bathroom wall and couldn´t quite believe she really intended to climb into the bathroom.  “Don´t!”, cried the agent in mock horror.  “I´ll do it.”, she continued about to kick off her high-heeled shoes.  Looking down at my legs which ended in a pair of trainers, I insisted that I should be the one playing the burglar and before I had time to think about my heroic offer, I found myself climbing up the ladder.  By this time more people had gathered in the boiler room and I could hear my husband´s voice proclaiming how mad he thought I was.  (Nothing new there then.)  Well, there was no going back for me now – my pride was at stake here.  I was hardly going to climb back down the ladder, shrug my shoulders and give up.  It soon emerged that the drop from the window down into the bathroom was simply too high, so Magdalena passed me a little wooden chair which we carefully manoeuvred through the open window after which we lowered it down onto the floor.  I climbed up the ladder, stuck one leg into the window frame and swivelled round, taking my other leg off the ladder at the same time.  I was now sitting in the window with one leg dangling into the boiler room while I gingerly lowered the other leg to meet with the seat of the chair in the bathroom.  When it finally did, there was a brief moment when I thought “And now? What do I do?”  I was more or less doing the splits but standing upright rather than performing a floor exercise.  Luckily, I finally managed to persuade my boiler room leg to join the bathroom leg on the chair much to the delight of the gathered audience.  Directing myself to the main door to let the others in, I found that I was limping and I could feel a sharp pain in the back of my right thigh.  Oh dear, what had I done to myself now? Unfortunately, it turned out that the flat was far from perfect for us, in fact, it couldn´t have been more unsuitable. 

 

Back in the hotel room that night, I decided to inspect the back of my by now not simply aching but throbbing thigh in the bathroom mirror and was shocked to clap eyes on what must have passed as the world´s biggest bruise, glowing in the brightest shade of purple. 

 

The subsequent trip to our chosen area a fortnight later was a lot more successful, even though I somehow managed to fall off a 5 cm ´high` ramp whilst putting on my sunglasses, landing flat on my face – very undignified I can tell you -  and ripping my jeans and left knee open.  Ian, who by now never leaves the house without carrying a first aid kit if I´m about, sorted me out, yet again, but first I had to sit outside in the shade for a good 10 minutes and do my heavy breathing exercises again until the black fog in front of my eyes had finally lifted.  

 

As a reward for my bravery, we were eventually shown the perfect villa which is just outside a pretty village and which we have subsequently rented for a period of six months, starting on 10th April.  We´ve been back twice: once to sign the rental contract and last week to take over a carload of mainly clothes and radiators (amazing how much stuff you accumulate over just a few months time).

So, our stay in the Alpujarras is finally drawing to a close this week.  It´ll be a hard act to follow.

 

¡Nos vemos!

The bruise

Two foreigners in a rush

Shortly after we had more or less recovered from our bout of food poisoning, we went down to Motril, the nearest big place on the coast, to sort out our NIE (Numero de Identificacion de Extranjeros).  It is essentially a tax number for foreigners in Spain and you need it for any official contracts or paperwork (for example if you want to open a bank account, buy a house or change your car´s registration to Spanish number plates).

 

We weren´t entirely sure where we had to go and so when we passed the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), it seemed a good place to stop and ask.  The guy behind the reception desk wasn´t too sure himself but, as we turned to leave, we bumped into a very helpful man who told us we had to go to the comisaría (police station) and he started giving us a detailed explanation of how we might find it.  With an anxious glance at our watches (it was gone 12:30 pm and many places in Spain tend to close at 2 pm for their siesta), we went on our merry way but were called back immediately by Mr Helpful who came running towards us.  He had remembered that the comisaría had actually moved into new premises as recently as the previous week but wasn´t 100% sure where exactly they were located now.  This, however, did not prevent him from trying to give us directions.  If there is one thing Spanish people are not good at, it´s admitting that they don´t know where something is.  Whilst he repeatedly scratched his head, thinking hard, our time was ticking away.  If, in turn, there is one thing English people are not good at, it is saying what they really think: “Look mate, we appreciate you´re trying to be helpful here but you quite obviously haven´t got a clue where you´re sending us and we´re running out of time, so why don´t you just shrug your shoulders and take a hike and we´ll find somebody else who can help us.”  After several more precious minutes had passed we finally managed to get away though not without thanking him profusely for his helpfulness.  A brief stop at the guardia civil (civil police) and a quick chat with a traffic warden confirmed the exact location of the comisaría where we finally arrived a short while later.  We joined the queue for extranjeros (foreigners) which was mercifully short – phew!

 

When it was our turn, the lady behind the desk handed us some forms and said: “You fill in!” and she helpfully pretended to hold a pen in her right hand, imitating writing movements.  Ian replied in fluent Spanish “Ok, so you´d like us to fill in these forms?  Sure.  Will that be it or do you need anything else from us?”  Surprised, the woman broke into a smile and carried on (this time in Spanish), requesting copies of our passports.  No problem, we thought naïvely, handing them over.  (I suppose we should have known it wouldn´t be as straightforward as that.)  The lady gazed at us blankly, shook her head and informed us that she couldn´t copy our passports as they still hadn´t any photocopiers in the new premises.  How annoying, especially as we could have done it ourselves at home.  Without these copies, though, our NIE couldn´t be processed.  It was by now 1:10 pm, the comisaría would in fact be closing for lunch at 1:30 pm to reopen several hours later, so we had two choices: copy our passports somewhere in the city, fill in the forms and hand everything in within the next twenty minutes or wait several hours and eventually having to drive back up into the mountains in the dark.  We opted for the first choice.  Consequently, Ian sprinted off whilst I frantically tried filling in both our forms to the best of my ability.  (Was apellido surname or first name?  What was Ian´s place of birth called again and how did you spell it?)  Ian in the meantime, having tried unsuccessfully to persuade a couple of unhelpful office employees to do him a favour and copy our passports, had finally managed to find a little shop with photocopying facilities and in spite of the shopkeeper receiving a phone call halfway through the copying process (which, of course, brought things to a total halt as you can´t possibly do two things at once), he made it back to the comisaría, copies in hand, with about three minutes to spare. 

 

Sitting where we had sat seventeen minutes earlier (slightly out of breath and frazzled), we were then told we should have copied the forms too.  We must have looked so frustrated that they took mercy on us and simply let us scribble out the forms again.  We were told our NIE would be allocated in a few days time and anybody presenting  a copy of the application form (which we were duly handed back) could pick up the desired pieces of paper.  For some reason these cannot be sent out by post, not even if you provide a stamped and addressed envelope.  What a farce.

 

To recuperate, we treated ourselves to a cold beer outside a bar overlooking the park and guess what tapa we were served with our drinks?  Yup, you got it in one - meatballs.  Help!  We tried to feed them to a passing dog who was sniffing round the tables but much to our surprise the four-legged creature categorically refused to eat the proffered snack.  I can only suppose he must have had a similarly dodgy experience to our Álora incident himself once.

 

¡Hasta pronto!